Happiest Place on Earth

About a week ago I was surfing the net when I saw a picture of Copenhagen on a news site. The article was titled “Happiest Place on Earth”. Basically, the UN found that the Danes were the happiest in the world due to factors such as social support and personal freedom. Well, let’s see if this hype is all true!

We arrived in Copenhagen around lunchtime by train. It took about 40 minutes to cross the Øresund Strait, which separates Sweden and Denmark. After a every short walk of a few hundred metres we were checked into our hotel, The Absalon. Our hotel was near the main train station. The location was fabulously central and the hotel itself was so stylish and modern. But the area was a bit dodgy in the junkie sense (not sure this is fitting in with my “happiest country” ideal.

We spent the rest of today strolling along the main shopping strip and ending up at Nyhavn, Copenhagen’s infamous waterfront. Nyhavn was originally a busy commercial port where ships from all over the world would dock. Today the beautiful old houses have been renovated with restaurants dominating the street. It is truly beautiful. Of all the places we have visited on this holiday, this pocket of Copenhagen is by far my favourite.

After a little rest, we ventured over to Paper Island for dinner. This has an interesting story. The industrial building on the island once served as the paper storage for the Royal Danish Press.When the contract was terminated, a developer bought the buildings. However, the Government stipulated that they must use the building as a creative space for 5 years and then they could develop into housing. And so, the space now houses a number of street food vendors. It was brilliant – the food was great, the beer good and the vibe so chilled and relaxed. We are glad to have seen it as building commences next year.

The next day was spent sightseeing the usual tourist hotspots – The City Hall, The Royal Palace, Churches and any other interesting looking building along our route. Of course this included a visit to The Little Mermaid, a statue in honor of  Danish Hans Christian Anderson.

A special mention on our sightseeing route needs to goes to freetown Christiana. Freetown Christiania was established in 1971 by a group of hippies who occupied abandoned military barracks and developed their own set of society rules, completely independent of the Danish government. It is a mix of homemade houses, workshops, art galleries, music venues and cheap and organic eateries. But it is most famous for its marijuana and hash dealing, which is illegal in Denmark. The main drag is a drug market called Pusher Street. Here, there are various (army-style) stalls set up with people dressed in balaclavas selling drugs. Further on, people sit at large tables relaxing and reaping the benefits of their purchase. This area is a “Green Zone”so no photography is allowed. It is absolutely amazing and a must see. However, you must leave all judgement at the gate when visiting.

Glenn also (finally) got his 40th birthday present from me. He had a wonderful experience of buying a Georg Jensen watch in Copenhagen.

Our last day of holiday and we were not flying out until 9pm. We decided to do a day trip to Helsingor and Louisana. In Helsingør lies Kronborg Castle, made famous as Elsinore in Shakespeare’s Hamlet. Kronborg Castle is the actual castle that Shakespeare set Hamlet in! At first I really wanted to visit Hamlet’s castle, and then I was indifferent as we had done so much sightseeing, but I am so glad we decided to go. It was so majestic and grand. Thumbs up!

Last on our list was Louisana, the Museum of Modern Art. Even though it is 35 minutes from Copenhagen it is the most visited museum. And this was evident the day we went as there were hordes of people. The museum is excellent. It has a real mix of art from many genres and mediums. The highlights were the temporary exhibition on eye illusion art (I needed to sit down as i as getting dizzy) and the video installations.

And that’s it. Off to the airport for 21 hours of glorious (not) flight time.

 

Road Trippin’

This morning we bid the big smoke farewell and started our 2 day road trip from Stockholm to Malmo. We picked up our Volvo station wagon. Volvo was the only option offered by Hertz.

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Today’s drive would take us to Eksjo via a number of small Swedish villages. We had approximately 400kms ahead of us. But no stress, 400kms wouldn’t take that long as no one in Sweden obeys the speed limit, particularly on the freeway.

The first 30 mins of driving in a foreign country is always a bit stressful – hitting the window wiper instead of the indicator, veering into the oncoming lane, a bit of yelling. But after a while Glenn found his rhythm and he was driving like a pro.

First stop was a village called Vadstena, located on a large lake. The main attraction of Vadstena is a beautiful castle (which was closed, of course). But it also had a cute cobblestone main street and charming church. The church was extremely interesting. In preparation for Easter a number of photographs were on display showing the death and resurrection of Christ. However, rather than being traditional pictures or paintings, the photographer had the town folk reenact scenes with references to modern day issues such as bullying, use of social media. It was fabulous.

Another interesting observation was the use of feathers. All the florists were selling twigs with feathers on them. We thought it was just a Scandi craze but it turned out to be a Easter tradition. In the olden days, children would get the feathered twigs and hit each other to feel the pain Jesus did in his death. However nowadays, they serve as a Easter decoration.

We drove past a number of ruins and churches to get to our next stop, Granna.

Granna is the home of the Candy Cane. It is here in this village that the Candy Cane tradition began. Every second shop makes and sells them.

We made it to Eksjo around 4pm. We got the GPS to take us straight to our hotel and we were less then impressed when we arrived. We were booked to stay at the “Annex”of the Stadshotel, located about 500m from the centre. The Annex was on the train line and looked completely dodgy. Fortunately, when we checked in at the main hotel, we were lucky to get a room there. Phew.

Eksjo is another charming wooden village. Not much to do except stroll through the old streets and admire the colours and have a good pub meal at our hotel.

Day 2 of our road trip was our 5th Wedding Anniversary. We decided to head straight for our final destination of Malmo, about a 300km drive. Although we did get distracted along the way at a small town with a magnificent cathedral and a deserted castle perched on a small island on a lake.

We arrived at Malmo at 2pm and were staying at the Elite Savoy Hotel. I had informed the hotel in advance of our anniversary and were lucky to be given a suite room. It was so spacious compared to the other hotel rooms we had stayed in.

No rest for the wicked. Malmo is a large city about 40 minutes from Copenhagen. But it has an old town precinct that had a gorgeous square and lovely old buildings. We spent a few hours strolling around the town.

Having said that, Malmo also has the most modern buildings in Scandinavia, the Twisted Torso. The Twisted Torso is the largest building in the Nordic countries. It is a residential building owned by HSBC Sweden. It was also a LONG WAY from the centre so we only walked so far so we could get a good photo (I was extremely lazy today).

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The evening ended with a delicious meal celebrate our anniversary – ribs for me, steak for Glenn. It was definitely a step up from our anniversary lunch of McDonalds!

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Final stop on this trip is Copenhagen, Denmark.

The Rich Cousin

A few posts ago I mentioned that Oslo was once the poor cousin of the other Scandinavian countries. It wasn’t until we arrived in Stockholm that I truly understood what this meant. Stockholm is a very grand city. Straight away you can see that it was once the epicentre of the nordic countries. It was once rich in trade and now, it is rich in history and culture. All you see are majestic and beautiful old buildings at every turn. You immediately assume everything is a “sight” to see, but many are just office or apartment buildings.

We arrived to Stockholm around 3pm as our flight was delayed. We easily found our way to our Airbnb using the airport shuttle and local bus. Our Airbnb apartment was located in the old town, Gamla Stan. The apartment was incredibly cosy, spread over 2 levels. On the ground level, there was a lounge, kitchenette and bathroom. Downstairs in the basement / dungeon was the bedroom.

Stockholm is made up of a number of islands. We spent our first afternoon strolling around the area we were staying at, Gamla Stan. It really is so beautiful. Narrow curved streets, cobble stone streets, old churches, the royal palace. It was gorgeous. And to finish the day we indulged in a traditional meal of Swedish meatballs at the oldest restaurant in Stockholm. Funnily, the restaurant is older than Australia!

The next two days were spent strolling and shopping and catching up some friends, Tom & Clara. There is so much to see you could easily spend a week walking around and taking in the architecture. We also caught a ferry to a few of the islands.

In terms of major sights, most are museum’s. We did two – the Nordiska Museum and the Fotografiska Museum. The former depicted the Swedish culture and life through the ages from fashion to furniture. The latter is a photograph museum that had a range of exhibitions from international and local artists. It was fabulous and a welcome change from “history” museums.

I want to give a big shout out to the brilliant museum restaurants. You would never eat lunch at a museum in Australia. However, the Swedes have nailed it. They offer a scrumptious lunch along with free salad, bread, tea and coffee. By the end of our lunches we would be bursting.

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On our last full day in Stockholm, we did a day trip to a small town called Sigtuna. Sigtuna is Sweden’s oldest town, founded in 980. It is a very sweet town perched on a lake (which is still frozen). The majority of the town actually burnt down but it still retains a number of old wooden buildings on its main drag as well as a number of ruins.

To finish off our stay in Stockholm we did more strolling and shopping. Did I mention there were heaps of record stores in Stockholm!

Hard Work

After getting home at 3:30am this morning from chasing the amazing Northern Lights, we had a relatively low key day sleeping in, having a lazy buffet breakfast, blogging and napping. It’s a hard life being on holiday. Little did we know that this “resting time” was setting up the scene for a night of hard work.

No, I am not talking about a big night at the pub (although that would have been far easier than what we did do!). I am talking about dog sledding.

Sounds easy, right? This is definitely how it was sold to me by my dearest husband. The brochure said something like “you will dog sled under the Norther Lights and, if you want, you can take a turn driving the sled”. Nope – there was no “if you want” option.

Basically we were picked up, driven about 40 minutes out of town, given thermal jumpsuits, a 5 minute briefing on how to drive a sled (with no instruction on what to do if you tip over or fall off) and then we were off driving a sled with 6 huskies. And we were doing all this at night with just two head torches.

Dog sledding has to be one of the most exhilarating experiences I have ever done. There is nothing like being in the snow with the sun setting and hearing the “swoosh” of the sled gliding on the snow. Big kudos to Glenn from driving the sled the entire 90 minutes. I was too scared so I sat on the sled and leant whatever way we were turning (or I was being yelled to turn).

It was also one of the most scariest things I have ever done. We feel off twice. The first time, the dogs kept running and Glenn was being dragged along while holding on. I was running after the sled. Running to catch up my legs feel mid-thigh into the snow and it was a major effort to pull myself out. The second fall happened much later and by then, the dogs were tired so they just sat down and rested while we got ourselves back on. Our dogs also had a few tangles with the dogs from the sled behind us (the other sled were not very good with the brakes).

Cake and tea served by the fire helped us recover from the experience. Overall an amazing experience but definitely not for the fainthearted.

On our last day in Tromso we did a snowshoe hike through a forest about 15 minutes from town. It was a good introduction to snow activities as neither Glenn or I ski. It was relatively easy to pick up the technique. Although, there were a few falls as mastering downhill takes a while.

This was one of those experiences were you really feel alive. You are immersed in nature in a way that is so different to taking a hike in Australia. The air is so clean and fresh and the snow so inviting. We really enjoyed the hike. Especially the little stop halfway for cake and warm blackberry juice.

Pizza and beers finished the night. Off to Stockholm tomorrow.

Bloody Lucky

North bound today to the town of Tromso. Tromso is the largest town in Northern Norway and a popular destination for the Northern Lights. We are two of the many tourists hoping to see the Northern Lights as well as enjoy other snow activities including dog sledding and snow shoe hiking. It will definitely be an active few days.

The flight from Bergen to Tromso was spectacular. The coast of Norway is quite rugged and from the plane all you see are snow covered mountains broken up by glistening fjords, the Norwegian Sea and the occasional frozen lake. It really was a fairytale flight. Even if we were travelling in a tiny propeller plane for the two hour trip.

We were staying at the Scandic Grand Tromso. Yep, a hotel!! It’s always a pleasant change to have buffet breakfast after eating coco pops for the last week. The room was basic but comfortable. And we had a fabulous view of the main street and the mountains.

We had some time to kill before our tour tonight so we wandered through town. It is only a small town (about 70,000 population) and it is quite picturesque with the mountains, quaint homes and all the snow.

The time had finally arrived. Tonight was the big night. We were going on our Chasing Lights tour to (hopefully) see the Northern Lights or aurora borealis – which is basically light caused by the interaction of charged particles. A number of conditions need to come together for this to happen, the key one being a clear sky. We were not feeling optimistic. The clouds had come into Tromso and there was not a patch of blue sky to be seen when we boarded our minibus at 5:30pm. We had already mentally prepared ourselves that we may not see them.

The tour is called “Chasing Lights” for a reason. They keep driving and driving until they find the lights. You even need to bring your passport in case we cross the border. And it was one of those nights. Our guide, Hermann, spent most of the evening on his phone checking weather forecasts, sky cams and liaising with colleagues all around the region. Because of this, we ended up in Finland around 9:15pm. We pulled up to a spot on the side of the road not far from where the borders of Norway, Sweden and Finland meet.

We were bloody lucky to see the Northern Lights for about 20 minutes before the clouds rolled in. Had we been on any of the other three buses that left that evening (they leave in 15 minute intervals), it is very unlikely we would have seen them.

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The Northern Lights were an experience to remember. It was not a top 5 night (that was the night before according to Hermann) but we had better than average. We were fortunate to see tinges of green as well as see it dancing. The longer they are in the sky, the stronger they become. In the photos the lights are even more vivid with hues of purple. Whilst I a little disappointed not to have the full-on experience you see in the photos, I was extremely blessed to have seen them. And when we later checked out photos for other nights on the Chasing Lights tour, we were reassured that our night had been above average.

After the lights we drove a little further in Finland to hopefully see more but the clouds were now covering the entire sky and it was even snowing. So Hermann built a campfire and we ate our supper and marshmallows around the fire while sitting on reindeer fur rugs.

We didn’t get back to our hotel until 3:30am where we quickly feel asleep dreaming of the magical lights we had just experienced.

It’s A Long Way To The Top

Bergen is one of those cute towns that you feel instantly at home. It’s quaint wooden houses, cobblestone streets and slow pace add to its charms. To give you an idea of its size, Bergen has a population of about 300,000. But is small enough that many of the major retailers do not have stores in Bergen. Today we spent the day exploring Bergen.

We certainly didn’t start the day super early, say around 9:30am, but it felt very quiet as we strolled around the streets – like it was more like 7am. We walked around for a about 30 mins taking in the quiet and calm (and also scoping record stores for Glenn).

We wandered over to the funicular, which takes you to the top of a mountain with views of Bergen. It was closed this week for “revision”. The only way to get to the top was to catch a bus half way up and then walk the rest, which takes about 20 mins. I was happy to skip the view but my eager beaver husband bought tickets before I could protest. I almost died on the walk up. Having been sick the week before, my lungs kept screaming for more air. Although it was a tough walk, the view was amazing. The other bonus was walking through the snow for the last 10 mins of the walk up the mountain.

All things that go up, must come down. The bus was on its lunch break when we walked back to where it dropped us off. So we could either walk all the way down ourselves or wait 2 hours for the bus. We decided to walk. And I must say, it was so steep going down that it didn’t take very long!

Back down on the ground, we explored the grounds of the fort and Rosenkrantz castle (no relation to the character in Shakespeare’s Hamlet).

Lunch at the fish market was exactly what we needed to refuel after so much walking. I had a fish and chips platter and Glenn had the salmon burger.

The day of sightseeing ended with some more strolling around the old town and Bergen theatre. We then had some “alone time” so Glenn could go record shopping (he had much success!).

Norway In A Nutshell

Ok. I thought yesterday’s scenery could not be topped. I was wrong. Very wrong.

Today we did the Norway in a Nutshell tour. It is an independent tour (no tour guide), where you catch a train to a bus, a bus to a fjord, a boat down the fjord, a train from the fjord and then another train back to Bergen. All the connections at perfectly synchronised so you won’t miss a thing. In a nutshell, this region of Norway is famous for its fjords. As such, the tour takes you through some of the most spectacular fjord scenery from both the water as well as travelling along the mountains.

The first train was from Bergen to Voss. There was some slight back tracking from yesterday’s train so it was a good opportunity to nap.

At Voss the bus was waiting for us. It would take about 50 minutes to get from Voss to Gudvangen. The drive was stunning. We passed cute villages and massive icicles. awe even passed a waterfall that was completely frozen, but which falls rapidly during the summer months.

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But the main event was the fjord cruise between Gudvangen and Flam. The boat takes us along Sognefjord and the scenery is to die for. The water is so crystal clear that the reflection of the snow covered mountains and villages is like a mirror image. And the mountains are so big, they almost don’t seem real. Stunning, perfect, superb, dreamy, breathtaking. These are all the words we used to describe the views on the cruise.

The Flam Railway is next which takes us to Myrdal. This is a 20km train ride which takes us from 2 metres altitude to 866 metres altitude. Again there was stunning scenery as we rode along the mountain. The highlight was another waterfall that was completely frozen. The best way to show this is with a summer vs winter pic of the waterfall.

After the Flam railway we headed back to Bergen. We were buggered after such a long day of travelling that we had a quick dinner on the way to our house and then a bit of Netflix before bed.

Gooden Bergen

One of the fondest memories from our 2013 holiday to Europe were the train trips. We loved settling into our seats and bouncing along with the rhythm of the train while staring out the window out the passing countryside. Because of this, we were super excited about our 6.5 hour train trip from Oslo to Bergen.

Lucky for us the train trip did not disappoint. It would have to be some of the best scenery I have seen on a train trip.

The train itself was awesome. We were snuggled into big wide seats in Komfort Class. Komfort Class was not for the riff-raff. We had our own toilet (which was probably bigger than the size of my bathroom back in Sydney) and our own tea and coffee facilities (the Hot Chocolate was yummy). Me, being very strict on following rules, was quite disturbed when the occasional cattle class riff-raff (you know who I am talking about Mr Blue Jacket) came into Our carriage and had one of Our coffees!

As for the scenery, it was breathtaking. The view started with small villages with a moderate amount of snow. Lakes were frozen over and looked like large fields covered in snow.

It then moved to what can be best described as Snow Planet. The snow looked thick and deep, like it had entirely covered villages. It was like nothing I had ever seen before.

And then it was gone. And there was only a sprinkling of snow on the mountains along side creeks that were flowing.

We arrived at Bergen at approximately 3pm and made the 14 minute walk to our Airbnb. Not sure if I had mentioned it earlier, but our plan is not to catch ANY taxis the entire time in Scandinavia. Our Airbnb house was a little wooden cottage about 5 mins walk from the centre of town. The house was very quaint. It is such a treat to actually see how people actually live rather than always be in a hotel room.

This afternoon we strolled around Bergen. If I was worried about not seeing anymore wooden houses or cottages, I shouldn’t have. Bergen is a wooden building town. The old town has a beautiful strip of wooden buildings. Once you go up close to them and walk down the little laneways between them, you can see the wooden construction. And you can also see that they are all sloping and looking like they are about to collapse!

Drinks and dinner at an authentic restaurant tonight and then off to bed in our attic bedroom.

 

Let It Snow

Last night it snowed. It snowed bad. It snowed so much that we had to change our dinner plans and stay super local. I know that this may sound super boring to anyone who lives where there is snow. But to two native Sydersiders, this is a massive novelty. We had such fun walking on the streets, all rugged up, with little white dots of snow falling on us. Here are the pics from our Airbnb apartment of the before and after.

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Today was our last day in Oslo. Yesterday we kept it super modern and hip. Today we stuck with old skool – old streets, old churches, old palaces, old forts.

Traditional Norwegian homes were made from wood. Very few traditional houses remain in Oslo. Most of the housing in Oslo is brick apartments or modern construction. However, two traditional wooden house streets remain in Oslo – Telthusbakken and Damstredet. These date back to the 18th century and were once considered the “shanty town” of Oslo. Now they are a popular residential area for artists (artists have vision, don’t they!).

We then visited the oldest building in Oslo, Gamle Aker Kirke, an old medieval church. The church has been destroyed by fire many times, but sections date back to the 12 century. With a cemetery next door, snow and no one else around, the church has a very eerie feel to it.

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After a coffee stop, we moseyed up to the Royal Palace. Built in the mid 1800’s, it is still an active palace and the current monarch still lives here. Whilst we were taking our happy snaps, a procession of cars went up the driveway towards the palace. I was most inconvenienced as I was taking a stellar shot and had to move. Little did I realise, until after the fact, was that I was actually moving for the current crown prince. I even gave him the typical Erika eye-roll! So funny!

Pub lunch calls. A quick stop for burgers at the pub on the main strip, Karl Johans Gate. We were celebrating victory too as we managed to find Glenn a brand new (black, not red) puffer jacket at Vinnies for a third of the retail price. Whoop whoop.

Last stop today was Akershus Festning, the Oslo Fort. This is a medieval fort strategically located on the tip of two points on the harbour. The castle was closed (those moody adolescent Norwegians are temperamental with opening hours in winter), but we still strolled around and admired the grandeur of the fort.

Home bound to some warmth and packing. Tomorrow, we make the 6.5 hour train trip to Bergen.

Where There is Candle, There is Fire

If you get a chance to visit Oslo, the one thing you will notice is that it is a young and upcoming city. Yes, it has old buildings, but it is really working hard to become a hip and cosmopolitan city that can compete with its Scandi cousins. Until about 10 years ago, Norway was the poor Norwegian cousin of the other Scandi countries. Then Norway discovered oil. And boom – Norway was no longer poor cousin but the rich uncle. With this new wealth, there is construction and development everywhere.

One example of modern-day construction is the Oslo Opera House. The Oslo Opera House was built in 2008 and was designed by Oslo architects to resemble a glacier floating in the waters off Oslo. It was also designed so that you can walk all over it – literally! So in the winter months, with the snow falling on it, it looks just like the glacier it was intended to be. And in the summer months, you can lie on it to soak the Norwegian sun.

On the theme of cool and modern, we visited the Museet for Samtidskunst (Museum of Contemporary Art). When I mentioned that Oslo is a young city, it also extends to its attitude to opening hours. Just like a moody adolescent, the city sleeps in on the weekend and only opens at noon. So, in what was a first for us, we were waiting for the museum to open. Once in, we were met with a number of installations. I have to admit that the meaning of contemporary art is sometimes lost on me (or maybe the lack of descriptions?).

To keep with the hip theme of today, we went back near our apartment to Mathallen. This is best described as a very cool food court. Different stores occupy this warehouse either as restaurants, cafes or purveyors of gourmet groceries. I didn’t actually take any photos here because of the fire. A wise person once said, where there is candle and you put polyester jacket in it, there will be fire. This is what happened to Glenn. When paying for our roast duck rolls, he burned a hole right through his puffer jacket. Bye bye jacket.

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But not even a burn in a jacket will defeat Glenn. We still soldiered onto the nearby markets at Bla. Whilst the markets were an extreme let down, the street made up for it with its very funky street art.